Two New Barrel Picks From "The American Equivalent of Kavalan"

Balcones "Madeira Barrel" K&L Exclusive Cask Strength Single Barrel #17122 Texas Single Malt Whisky (750ml) ($89.99)

David Othenin-Girard | K&L Spirits Buyer

Balcones has long stood among the finest craft distillers in the U.S., but in recent years, we’ve seen a clear shift in their focus toward single malt. From my perspective, that’s a wise move—because it’s increasingly evident that the most exciting whisky potential in this part of the world doesn’t come from corn-based spirits. Very little of the truly great whiskey emerging from Texas is bourbon, and frankly, few producers anywhere can match the intensity and complexity that Balcones delivers in their cask-strength single barrels.

While the comparison may seem surprising given their wildly different styles, these cask-strength single malts are starting to resemble the American equivalent of Kavalan—an ace in the hole that makes neighboring single malts feel tame by comparison. These whiskies aren’t for fans of delicate Highland malt—at least not straight out of the bottle. Instead, they’re for those who crave raw power and presence in the glass.

This barrel is no exception, though it does show a level of maturity and polish that the Oloroso barrel lacks. Let’s dive in. A gorgeous auburn hue (1.5). This one loves air. The nose explodes with molasses cookies, fig jam, shoe polish, aged leather, grape syrup, plum sauce, candied strawberries, and a deep woodsy undertone. I’ll admit I’m eating my words a bit here—there’s a strong resemblance to very old sherried malts, with tropical fruit, savory leather, and a coconut-like maturity, especially after the whisky has had an hour or more to open up. Blind, you’d never guess the age. For Waco, this is quite old.

The palate expands the experience with exotic spice—garam masala, turmeric, clove—layered over dense dried fruits. The finish continues this interplay of sweet and savory, with oak tannins perfectly woven into the whole. Some may be drawn more to the Oloroso barrel, but honestly, this is such a unique cask that you’d do well to try them side by side. I couldn’t choose between them—and I doubt you’ll be able to either.

Balcones "Oloroso Sherry Hogshead" K&L Exclusive Cask Strength Single Barrel #12720 Texas Single Malt Whisky (750ml) ($89.99)

David Othenin-Girard | K&L Spirits Buyer

This absolute monster of a barrel may be the most intense and complex American Single Malt we’ve ever bottled. The wonderful Balcones Distillery is capable of a great deal, but where they truly shine is in this style of powerfully extractive, deeply complex, cask-strength whisky. For me, this is perhaps the closest the States has come to producing a Kavalan-style malt—albeit shaped by very different aging conditions.

Let’s give it a go. It pours thick—you can see it flow slowly. The color is dark as night, like brown sherry. The nose is deep and commanding, with massive aromas of cooked stone fruit, dark nutty chocolate, roasted espresso, and aged wood. It’s dense, chewy, and layered.

On the palate, it’s rich and mouth-coating. There’s immense power here—nearly tannic in structure—but it never veers off course. Waves of dark fruit, nougat, rancio, teak, clove, and hard strawberry candies all roll across the tongue. An absolutely exhilarating—and jaw-dropping—experience.