Island Icons Unleashed—Collectable Rums, New Low Prices

Hampden Estate "Great House - Distillery Edition 2024" Pure Single Jamaican Rum (750ml) ($129.99)

David Othenin-Girard | K&L Spirits Buyer

Hampden’s Great House is the quintessential limited-edition annual rum release. The fact that every bottle isn’t snapped up immediately speaks to how young Jamaican-rum connoisseurship still is. If you enjoy full-flavored malts or well-aged bourbon, tropically aged, high-ester Jamaican rum deserves a place in your repertoire. While the flavors differ, the quality and depth of experience are comparable. This year’s blend departs from previous batches by combining four different marques instead of the usual two: 50 % three-year LFCH 2021, 20 % four-year LFCH 2020, 15 % six-year HGML 2018, and 15 % three-year DOK 2021. (Remember, three years in Jamaica equals roughly six in Kentucky or ten in Scotland.)

In the glass it shows a copper hue (1.0). The nose bursts with maritime and fruity aromas: plum syrup, clove, tar, salty seagrass, lemon zest, licorice, camphor, and sandalwood—stupendously complex. The palate is almost overpowering at first, delivering mace, cinnamon, sweet red berries, rubber, and roasted vanilla. A splash of water softens the edges, revealing an inviting suppleness beneath the power. This is a formidable, intricately layered rum and a perfect gateway for whisky lovers looking to cross over in a big way. A very special bottling indeed.

2005 Undisclosed Jamaica 17 Year Old "Golden Devil" K&L Exclusive Single Barrel Jamaican Rum (700ml) ($129.99)

David Othenin-Girard | K&L Spirits Buyer

There may be some controversy around this batch of rum, namely that our bottler cannot divulge anything about its source or character. Because virtually no rum was produced at Hampden during this period, it is difficult to pin down the style made there in this brief transitional phase. Some tasters say it resembles Worthy Park, yet I cannot understand why it would not be sold under that blender’s marque—distillery names are sometimes withheld, but the marque itself almost always remains.

As for the liquid, it shows all the telltale signs of tropically aged, ester-driven rum—the profile we seek anyway—so wherever it comes from, it is special. Let’s taste. The color is a shimmering auburn (1.5), proof of lengthy tropical ageing before shipment to Europe.

Super-integrated and complex, it avoids the aggressive “industrial” edge of some continental-aged examples. Instead, deep roasted-fruit aromas—both tropical and citrus—meld with dense exotic wood, toasted spice (cinnamon and black pepper), cinchona bark, fine Italian espresso, rich leather, sweet oak, toasted vanilla, and, behind it all, an old machine shop scented with pipe-tobacco soot. With air, the bouquet keeps expanding.

On the palate it is hugely spicy, laden with dried-raisin syrup, roasted pineapple, licorice stick, camphor, dried mint, and caramel candies. The finish is enormous, balancing roasted fruit, savory wood, and powerful spice in exquisite tension. It fully delivers on the promise of tropical-aged, medium-ester rum—an exceptional spirit whose mysterious origin hardly matters. If anyone manages to replicate it, they will be very lucky indeed.

Foursquare Rum Distillery 16 Year Old "Mark XXVI - Magestrium" Ex-Bourbon & Ex-Sherry Cask Exceptional Cask Selection Single Blended Barbados Rum (750ml) ($139.99)

David Othenin-Girard | K&L Spirits Buyer

The glorious rums coming out of Foursquare continue to impress, although certain releases have pushed the limits of what the rum-loving community is willing to pay. This new bottling, though, steps back into the realm of reason: given the time and effort poured into every Foursquare release, it remains undervalued—despite flippers and gougers who seize on the distillery’s modest pricing. Still, high costs can discourage opening a great bottle on an ordinary weekend, so I’m thrilled we can offer this rather old and delicious release for under $150.

Let’s taste. The rum shows a ridiculous mahogany hue (1.6) and delivers exactly what we expect from mature Foursquare: the gorgeous marriage of deep pot-still character and nutty sherry richness. Think chocolate-covered raisins, cherry candies, hazelnut spread, and burnt orange peel. With air, notes of dried tropical fruit, sweet oak, licorice root, and vanilla emerge.

The palate is rich with dark red fruit, citrus oils, coffee, and toasted vanilla. The finish turns up the pot-still funk just a touch, while nutty Oloroso tones balance the sweet mid-palate with a hint of bitterness as burnt orange and roasted oak take over. In short, this is a powerhouse expression of the master distiller’s idiosyncratic style—precisely what you want from old Foursquare.