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2017 Il Paradiso di Frassina "Moz Art Wine" Brunello di Montalcino (Elsewhere $60) ($34.99) "There's an old-school feel in this wine, taking one back to the era before fruit bombs, to the earthier aromatics, dried flowers, dried herbs, oyster shell, and lots of spice..." — Greg St. Clair, K&L Italy Buyer This intriguing 95-point 2017 offers fans of the old school everything they're looking for. The polished structure frames a classic Brunello profile, without the rustic edges that we sometimes find in the wines of yesteryear. Whether it's the fact that they play Mozart to the vines, we can't say, but what we do know for sure is that it will put a smile on the face of any diehard Brunello fan, especially at 40% off its original price.
95 points James Suckling: "Aromas of dried flowers, black cherries and dried strawberries follow through to a medium to full body with very fine tannins that coat the mouth. From organically grown grapes. Fresh, bright and very drinkable now, but will be even better in 2023." (11/2021)
The winery is in the northern portion of Montalcino and abuts one of our favorites, Poggiarellino. There's an old-school feel in this wine, taking one back to the era before fruit bombs, to the earthier aromatics, dried flowers, dried herbs, oyster shell, and lots of spice, celery seed, and coriander. On the palate, the wine continues the old-school theme with porcini dust, leather, and some dried cherry framed with very fine tannins. Good weight and balance, while the lingering flavors drive the wine back to a strong finish. The Moz Art reference in the name refers to the music played in the vineyards during the ripening. Perhaps you're a fan of classical music! The wine needs a strong dish to accompany it, like braised beef or pork, and I would decant it for 2-3 hours.
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