Dear Pros,
Erika here. I'm continuing a debate today that started in Aspen, at my colleague Mel Hansche's panel about what luxury means in 2026 as part of the American Express x Resy Trade Program by F&W Pro. Do you prefer the word "customer" or "guest" when talking about the people who patronize a restaurant?
As I've discovered while lobbing this question at people, the terms provoke a range of reactions. Does "customer" feel clinical or straightforward? Does "guest" connote a warm invitation or an expectation to bring a bouquet of flowers to the restaurant?
When I polled my colleagues at Food & Wine, some folks said that "guest" conjured warmer hospitality on both sides, instead of a pretentious, problematic "the customer is always right" type of mindset. Kat Kinsman pointed out that renowned Raleigh chef Ashley Christensen even has a tattoo that says "guest." I've also heard the counterargument. I'll never forget how one of my former editors would furiously delete the word "guest" anytime she spotted it in a story draft. We aren't houseguests, she would say. Diners pay for their food; therefore, they are customers.
This week, Food & Wine contributor Patricia Kelly Yeo followed up with the industry veterans who were on Mel's panel in Aspen. Simon Kim, the restaurateur whose award-winning projects include the Michelin-starred Korean steakhouse Cote and the fancy fried chicken restaurant Cocodaq, teaches his team to refer to diners as customers.
Referencing his upbringing in Seoul, South Korea, Kim told Yeo, "When I invite someone to my house, there are expectations on what to do and what not to do. As a guest, you should bring something to the table. As a service provider, we don't have any such expectations of our customers."
Jake Potashnick, the chef and owner of Feld, a tiny fine-dining spot in Chicago, was adamant that all of the people who walk into his restaurant are guests. "I want every single person who walks in the door to feel like they're in my living room, in my kitchen," he said.
Pros, I would love to know where you stand. As a diner, do you have a preference about what you're called — and what that might mean about a restaurant's mindset? As a restaurant owner, do you have rules for your team, or a different word you use? Let me know at the email below, and I may feature your response in next week's F&W mailbag.
Take care, Erika |