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Escape to Cartagena, chill out in Chiang Mai, and discover elephant-inspired architecture

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Escape to Cartagena, chill out in Chiang Mai, and discover elephant-inspired architecture
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From our editors
Anna Fixsen, US editor

It’s little wonder that Colombia bills itself el país de la belleza – the country of beauty. The South American nation features astounding biodiversity and cultural heritage, and topography ranging from the majestic Andes and the Amazon rainforest to the Caribbean coast. I wasn’t contemplating any of this, however, when my husband and I found ourselves surrounded by a pack of cantankerous Amazon parrots during a visit to Colombia’s national aviary earlier this month, while on vacation. The green birds, known for their uncanny mimicry of human voices, had developed a cackle so diabolical and a mien so belligerent that it sent us running. (A video of the encounter went viral.)
Colourful street in Cartagena, at dusk
Our aviary excursion was just one of many memorable moments during our trip to Cartagena, a place we first fell in love with four years ago. The historic walled city, located on Colombia’s Caribbean coast, is a Unesco World Heritage Site filled with sherbet-coloured Spanish colonial buildings, abloom with bougainvillea. We like to stay at Casa del Arzobispado, a gem of a hotel located in a 17th-century building in the town’s historic walled portion. (For a taste of the vibrant Getsemaní neighbourhood and a potential sighting of its resident sloths, stay at the recently opened Four Seasons Cartagena).

If you go, be sure to spend a day in the Rosario Islands. Here you’ll find private resorts (most offer day trips including transport via speedboat), white-sand beaches and crystal-clear waters, filled with coral and tropical fish. Back in Cartagena, we took it easy, dining out (La Cevichería is an all-time favourite); taking nighttime strolls along Las Murallas, the old fortresses; and taking part in the World Cup fever that swept the city. Colombia is indeed the country of beauty – be it the beautiful streetscapes or the beautiful game. Just avoid the parrots.

Read on for more Weekendpaper* flits – to a 1970s Californian retreat reborn, and an architect’s private Thai haven newly open for stays – plus news of a truly portable projector for movie nights wherever you are.
Five minute reads
Wood and glass house amid trees
California’s Owl House by Mickey Muenning is revamped as a retreat for empty nesters

Sitting among tangles of oak and Monterey pine, on the lip of a canyon in Carmel-by-the-Sea, Owl House is part art, part architecture, its rich contradictions impossible to grasp at a glance. The redwood structure looks different from every angle – from the street, like a fox’s den hollowed out of the brush; from the canyon behind, like a massive, perched nest. Where it looms largest, however, it is also generously glazed, giving it the all-seeing gaze of its namesake. Inside, it feels exposed, enclosed and, in some places, both. Sculptural, layered and textural, it offers a series of inhabitable collages that are rigorous in their geometry, reverent toward nature, but playful nonetheless.

Designed in the early 1970s by architect Mickey Muennig – aka ‘the man who built the Big Sur’ – the house was restored in 2024 by landscape architect Bernard Trainor of Ground Studio. Then last year, its interiors were renovated by Wallpaper* US400 honoree Nicole Hollis’ San Francisco design studio for a pair of empty nesters, who use it as a weekend retreat. Shonquis Moreno wings her way over for an Owl House tour.

Olalekan Jeyifous with works in progress in his Brooklyn studio
Olalekan Jeyifous reimagines the past to propose a promising alternative future

Olalekan Jeyifous is a builder of provocative futures. For ‘Hydricosmic Litanies’, a new solo exhibition at the Walker Art Center (opening 6 August), the Brooklyn-based artist, a trained architect and a Wallpaper* US400 honoree, imagined a society in Minneapolis that evolved around the ecology of the Mississippi River, which flows through the heart of the city. Working like an archaeologist discovering and documenting this culture, Jeyifous created digital collages of the cityscape, with highways that once displaced Black neighbourhoods transforming into waterways that sustain aquaculture, travel and housing. A series of 3D-printed sculptures depict the industrial, technical and cultural artefacts that this society produced and deities that protect them. ‘I’m always dusting off the fragments and figuring out who lived there, what they looked like, and what was important to them,’ he says.

Jeyifous’ worlds emerge from different parameters and narratives, but they share throughlines: communal societies, close relationships between people and natural ecosystems, and joyful Black life. Diana Budds met him to find out more.

Thom Browne wearing a shorts suit and knee socks
Stay at architect Bill Bensley’s personal Eden in Thailand

The Bangkok-based American architect and designer Bill Bensley and his husband, horticulturalist and landscaper Jirachai Rengthong, have been building their private weekend retreat in the Mae Rim valley north of Chiang Mai for the better part of two decades – layering rooms, gardens, art collections and a suspension bridge over a river into something that defies straightforward description.

Hacienda Botanica is 16 hectares of Northern Thailand wrapped in a Mexican aesthetic: thick terracotta walls, shaded courtyards, casitas scattered across grounds of remarkable botanical richness. It has never been available to anyone except its owners and their guests – till now. Luxury travel company Smiling Albino has begun to offer the estate as an exclusive buyout. Eleven bedrooms, one valley, no other guests. Daven Wu checks in.

 
 Wallpaper* Milan Design Week issue banner 
 
 
 
Design of the week
Architectural installation made of tall poles, each crafted from Elephant dung

Architect and artist Boonserm Premthada has transformed elephant dung into an unlikely building material to create this striking series of sunset-coloured towers in Phang Nga, Thailand. Part of the Matalay project – a master-planned coastal community – the landmark is named after a local female elephant, Goya.

TIANNA WILLIAMS, STAFF WRITER
 
 
For your consideration
The stuff that’s excited our editors this week
 
 
portable projector angled within square frame, like a fan
Screen...
...movies in any space with one of XGIMI’s new portable projectors. The Elfin Flip Laser (pictured) is a book-sized unit that can be carried from room to room, and rotates through 150 degrees, so ceiling projection is definitely on the table. Onboard tech includes a Harmon Kardon speaker with Dolby Audio support and inbuilt Google TV, while a sensor adapts colour balance depending on your shade of paint. Read the full review.
JONATHAN BELL, TRANSPORT & TECH EDITOR
 
 
towel
Order...
…Margaret Howell’s take on Dr Martens’ classic 1461 shoes, ready for the post-summer, back-to-work shift out of flip-flops. The collaboration, through Howell’s MHL line, is one of minimal intervention; instead of fully reimagining the style, the designer has added a padded heel collar and tab, unwaxed cotton laces, and a double-stitched toe cap – subtle details drawn from other work shoes in the Dr Martens archive.
JACK MOSS, FASHION & BEAUTY FEATURES DIRECTOR
 
 
Bergamot handwash
Bring on...
…the bergamot to add zing to your bathroom routine this summer. Lyn Harris of Perfumer H is celebrating the season with a new bergamot-scented range, including hand wash, body wash, body lotion and bar soap. The fresh, citrussy fragrance is enhanced by clean aldehydes and petitgrain, as well as deep notes of frankincense and juniper wood.
MARY CLEARY, BEAUTY EDITOR
 
 
From the W* Culture Desk
Photographer in full body paint for self-portrait
In Aarhus, delve into the history of punk, as told through the body
Rubber ducks on production line
In New York, get your ducks in a row and make it to this month’s best art exhibitions
Film still of artist covered in feathers running on beach
In London, discover artist Ana Mendieta’s sensual engagement with the natural world
 
 
Design of the week
‘The greatest luxury is to have anything in your life that makes you feel like you’re slowing down and actually being present’
 
 
 
 July 2026 issue of Wallpaper* 
 
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