WOMEN OF THE GOLDEN AGE OF MOUNTAINEERING
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META BREVOORT
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The year was 1825 when Meta Brevoort was born into the affluence and comfort of New York high society. She was destined, it seemed, for a life of elegance and refinement, confined by the rigid expectations of her gender and status. However, Meta's spirit was one of unquenchable curiosity and relentless ambition, qualities that would soon propel her beyond the genteel confines of her upbringing and into the rugged, untamed world of the European Alps where she would leave a lasting impact of first ascents fueled by a deep passion for alpine sport and drive to overcome the crude gender norms of the late 19th century.
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Belonging to a well-off family allowed Meta the freedom to travel and pursue her personal interests. Driven by her family's wealth and a deep-seated yearning for adventure which was shared by her parents and nephew, William Auguste Brevoort Coolidge, the group departed for Europe during the mid-1860’s. Primarily residing in the picturesque town of Grindelwald, Switzerland located in the Bernese Alps, Meta found herself immersed in an alpine environment of immense mountains and breathtaking beauty. Proximity to prime peaks, such as the Eiger, made Meta’s new found home a convenient base camp for her soon-to-come mountaineering activities in the region.
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Quickly immersed within the outdoor culture of Alps, Meta's interest in climbing coincided with the burgeoning sport of mountaineering unfolding throughout Europe during latter half of the 19th century. Among her neighbors and at her doorstep were climbers consistently coming and going, traveling to and through the mountains, who regaled their adventures among the local community in an exciting tide that washed over the region and especially Meta who was instantly drawn to the rising atmosphere of adventure. Yet despite Meta’s growing curiosity and interest to partake in the climbing excursions of her own, as a female she encountered fierce skepticism from the male dominated climbers of the area as well as many from the general population who frowned upon such interests due to the arcane societal norms of the era. Nevertheless, Grindelwald, with its expansive landscapes and challenging terrain, provided Meta with the perfect proving ground to pursue her rising passion for climbing. Likewise, Meta's supportive family, especially her nephew and future climbing companion, played a crucial role during the inception of her mountaineering career, allowing her to push boundaries and achieve remarkable feats in a time when women's participation in such activities was most often discouraged.
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Through determination and family support Meta’s early adventures progressed from light hikes, to steeper terrain, and ultimately to excursions well above the tree line in preparation for legitimate climbs into the surrounding mountains. For the latter stages of her adventuring, Meta was accompanied by two key partners who would become her most faithful mountaineering companions; her nephew William Auguste Brevoort Coolidge and their loyal dog Tschingel. Together this interesting triumvirate would embark on numerous adventures, scaling some of the most formidable peaks in the Alps.
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Over time, the height of Meta’s climbing ambitions and expeditions increased leading to her first significant summit. In 1864, accompanied by William and Tschingel, Meta achieved the first ascent of the Eiger via its west flank. Proving to be a treacherous expedition fraught with terrain and weather related danger, Meta also found the experience invigorating and the experience only solidified her resolve to climb higher in the years to come. As such, in 1871 Meta set her sights on one of the most formidable peaks in all of the Alps: the Matterhorn. Her attempt to summit this imposing giant was met with immense challenges all of which were heavily amplified when compared to the prior Eiger expedition. The ascent of the Matterhorn proved grueling, the weather wildly unpredictable & unforgiving, and the path populated with no-fall zones throughout. Despite her best efforts, she did not reach the summit. However, her attempt was nothing short of extraordinary, and as a testament to her courage and resilience, an undeterred Meta thereafter turned her attention to La Meije in the Dauphiné Alps.
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La Meije, a peak known throughout the Golden Age of Mountaineering for its technical difficulty was a true test of Meta Brevoort’s climbing prowess. With its highest point at 3,983 meters (13,068 feet), La Meije was one of the last great alpine peaks to be approached by mountaineers of the time period. Although not the first to make the climb, Meta’s ascent held great significance as it was one of the most notable female climbs in a male dominated and chauvinistic era. Furthermore, despite making the round-trip excursion in a skirt as was considered socially appropriate, Meta defied all metaphorical and physical limitations in a showcase of pure alpine skill that sent reverberations throughout the Alps and beyond and which still ripple to this day.
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Marking a pivotal moment in the history of women's mountaineering, Meta's climb, courage, and resilience on La Meije ultimately inspired wide admiration and paved the way for future female climbers. Considered by most to be THE FIRST female alpinist, Meta Brevoort’s spirit lives on in every woman who dares to defy convention and reach for the heights of the mountains. Her life story is a testament to the power of passion and determination; a beacon for all who seek to climb beyond the horizons and limitations of their time. Throughout her climbing career, Meta faced the constant challenge of rigid societal expectations. The idea of a woman engaging in such rigorous and dangerous activities was met with consistent surprise & resistance. Yet, she remained undeterred, her passion for the mountains far outweighing any societal disapproval. Her climbs were as much about breaking barriers as they were about reaching summits. More than a series of rote adventures; Meta’s journey was an consistent ascent which broke both physical & gender-based barriers. Her adventures and achievements helped to change the perception of women in outdoor sports and contributed to the gradual acceptance of women climbers while leaving a lasting legacy in the annals of mountaineering.
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