THREADS OF TRADITION: THE FLANNEL ANNALS
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The flannel shirt, often associated with rugged outdoor work and casual fashion, has a rich history that dates back several 100 years, beginning in the 17th-century.
Originally developed in Wales, flannel was created by Welsh farmers in need of a warm, durable material to protect themselves from the harsh, wet climate. With ample stock of sheep which supplied a surplus of wool, after shearing, the wool was cleaned and carded to disentangle and align the fibers where it was thereafter spun into yarn using a spinning wheel. The woven into fabric on a loom, the weaving technique produced a relatively loose soft fabric which then entered a process called fulling. Fulling, to be followed by the brushing & dying operations, was a method used to the thicken & further soften the woven wool by heavily soaking the fiber in water which was followed by a heavy pounding with wooden hammers which “fulled” the fibers causing them to mat together into a higher density warmer material.
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Such rustic & early flannel shirting became popular not only among the Welsh but also throughout other parts of the UK and overseas. As word of the fabrics robust utility as expressed by its durability and weather resistant complexion, the flannel was soon sought after for outdoor laborers including its original Welsh farming community along with workmen associated throughout the global advent of the industrial revolution.
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Winding into the turn of the 19th century and amidst the worldwide transition from primarily agricultural economies to rising industrial capitalism, the flannel’s original “farm-to-table” production became mechanized, making it more widely available & affordable. Specifically, near the origin of flannel making, mills in England & Scotland began producing flannel on a large scale so as to equip the ever growing working class population and most especially in cold weather climes where avenues of industrialization demanded outdoor tradesmen activities.
Having thereby established itself as a critical functional & protective wardrobe staple of the greater British workforce, the flannel crossed the Atlantic ocean and was embraced by a similar blue collar population thereby solidifying its culture significance a primary workwear garment. Heavy & immediate adoption by lumberjacks & railroad works of the iconic red-and-black checkered expression of the flannel shirt, soon became an iconic symbol of American ruggedness, self-reliance, frontier life, and a “can-do” spirit.
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During the early 1950’s and in a post-WWII era, such a pioneering aura soon stimulated the flannel shirts infiltration into the world of alpine sport where its blend of practicality, handsome silhouette, and durability made the piece a favorite among the founding fathers of big mountain Western resort skiing. And so it was that the journey of the flannel from a world of workwear to staple on the slopes is directly tied to the evolution of skiing as a sport and the cultural nuances surrounding this new found pursuit of winter recreation.
First and foremost, during skiing’s 20th century boom, and most especially in the Rocky Mountain region, ski wardrobes were primarily informed and influenced by the garb that already existed within ones standard day-to-day ensembles. Woolen garments, including flannel shirts, were common due to their warmth and the fact that they could be layered easily. In the cold, snowy confines of present day Vail & Aspen these woolen flannel shirts provided the necessary insulation and protection against the elements when outdoors whether skiing or not. Yet, with the ski bug taking hold among the general population it was readily discovered that the flannel’s ability to retain warmth even when wet, coupled with the brushed surface of the fibers, generated a high comfort, warm, and un-abrasive mid & outerwear layer that helped to protect & regulated body temperature during downhill skiing.
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As skiing grew in popularity & cache, particularly after World War II, the culture surrounding the sport began to influence fashion. The post-war boom saw an increase in outdoor recreational activities, and flannel shirts, already associated with outdoor work and ruggedness, became part of the standard uniform for those engaging in winter recreation. The "mountain man" aesthetic, which included flannel shirts, became highly fashionable among skiers, reinforcing the garment’s association with outdoor activities. In the ages & advances to come, despite ski apparel’s modern technological applications, even amongst advanced fabrics and insulation, the flannel shirt remains a high performance, nostalgic, and stylish choicer or alpine sportsmen with the added benefit of being able to transition easily from on-piste to off-piste activities and apres-ski settings.
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A testament to its origins, the flannel shirt is a workwear come sportswear garment that has remain tried & true to its timeless standards since the early 19th century. Full of versatility and a workman’s appeal, the flannel’s migration from Wales to the greater UK and onto the United States and is community of alpine sportsman is one of authenticity & functional purpose. A pure outdoor product designed for Autumnal and Winter activity, the flannel’s warmth, ruggedness, and pioneering approach to life makes it a perfect match across the worlds of workwear and alpine sport where both tradition and innovation coexist.
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