One of the most notable figures in the advent of proper climbing knitwear was Reinhold Messner, an Italian mountaineer renowned for his minimalist and innovative approach to climbing in the 1970’s and 1980’s. Messner, while adopting a spiritual approach to his outdoor expeditions, also stripped away superfluous gear to ensure a the closest natural connection to the mountain itself. Part & parcel to his wardrobe was knitwear of various gauges designed to accommodate an approach, climb, summit pause, and descent as required and based upon the variable conditions of his adventures. However, decades before Messner, the foundation for knitwear as a crucial piece of equipment was laid by pioneering European climbers.
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The development of specialized climbing knitwear is deeply intertwined with the history of mountaineering, particularly in the European Alps in the late 19th century. The Golden Age of Mountaineering, which spanned from around 1854 to 1865, was a transformative period for both the sport of climbing and the development of alpine gear, including robust sweaters produced from local livestock and the surrounding environment. It was during this era that mountaineers completed a series of daring first ascents across the European Alps, often relying on knitwear, as a critical part of the climbers' wardrobe, to play a role in their survival and success.
Specifically, knitwear as first employed by alpinists when British and Norwegian mountaineers began embracing the use of woolen garments for their earliest expeditions. Climbers at that time were pioneering both technique & equipment while searching for the most optimal garments suitable for the harsh and unpredictable conditions of high-altitude environments. Wool was naturally insulating and retained warmth even when damp, making it invaluable for high-altitude climbing where cold and moisture were constant threats. Known to Scandinavians in particular, Norwegian fishermen had long used thick woolen jumpers for work in extreme weather, and thus climbers from Norway may been the first to use such sweaters effectively by layering them under their jackets for increased insulation. As such, early knitwear—particularly wool sweaters—became considered essential mountaineering protection against cold, wet, and wind.
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Explorers and climbers of the era, including particular pioneers from Britain sought to summit some of the highest and most challenging mountains in Europe. Archival information from the time period indicates that throughout the Golden Age, woolen knitwear was used on a series of first ascents, including those of the Matterhorn in 1865, the Eiger in 1858, and the Weisshorn in 1861. Given the variable weather, precipitation, and the need for warmth and range of motion, it is well noted that wool in particular was key ingredient for climber protection during each notable ascent all of which involved scaling rock faces as well as the necessary navigation of cold weather glaciers. Thick woolen sweaters, hand-knitted with dense, heavy wool were used at various elevations as both outerwear and as a mid-layers and, as such, because of such powerful utility soon become a component of everyday alpine ensembles.
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Considered a standard staple of the British climbing kit, these garments were initially informed by British & Scandinavian knitting traditions, including thick, tightly-knit garments. When carried over to mountaineering use, these construction best practices provided climbers with a key layer of warmth and comfort. Furthermore, wool's unique properties made it invaluable to early mountaineers. The key characteristics of wool, particularly its ability to retain warmth when wet and its breathability, were essential for surviving in alpine conditions while providing a critical form of effective insulation. Wool also allowed for layering, which was crucial for climbers to regulate their body temperature as they ascended and faced varying weather conditions throughout round trip excursions as varying elevations.
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However, it was not only British expedition leaders that drove the infiltration and adoption of climbing knits. During the Golden Age, many non-European climbers relied heavily on local alpine guides for assistance in navigating the mountains. These guides came from mountain communities and were already familiar with the harsh weather conditions of the Alps. They too often wore thick woolen clothing and knitwear produced locally, made by skilled knitters who understood the demands of the mountain environment. At the time, knitwear was not mass-produced but rather made by local craftsmen and women in the Alpine regions. Towns like Chamonix in France and Zermatt in Switzerland became hubs for mountaineering, and the local economies grew around serving the needs of climbers. Wool, which was abundant in these regions, was spun and knitted into garments designed for warmth, durability, and practicality while also generating wonderfully woven patterns indicative & expressive of the garments’ origin which often reflected the local designs specific to each community. And while the alpine guides' knitwear was often handcrafted; this careful method of making ultimately produced an extremely high degree of garment durability allowing for the pieces to be passed down through generations leading many climbers to wear long-standing sweaters that had been specially made for them by local artisans or family members.
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