| | Jack Moss, fashion features editor
Welcome to the latest Weekendpaper*, the new Saturday newsletter from the Wallpaper* editors that brings our pick of need-to-know stories, intriguing events and tempting purchases of the week, direct to your inbox.
|
 |
 |
|
This week the Wallpaper* fashion team is in Paris for Men’s Fashion Week, where the most talked-about moment so far is Jonathan Anderson’s debut collection for Dior on Friday afternoon. Teased on Instagram throughout the week, it finally emerged as an exploration of affluence and grandeur in which signals of upper-class dress codes were reconfigured, presented dishevelled and skewiff, as Anderson sought to bring ‘joy to the art of dressing’. In other highlights, Rick Owens erected a ‘Temple of Love’ for a show amid the fountains of Palais de Toyko, and talked to Wallpaper* about his retrospective of the same name. At Saint Laurent, Anthony Vaccarello paid romantic tribute to Fire Island – and the circle of underground queer artists who frequented the New York idyll in the 1980s. And Pharrell Williams treated us to a giant game of snakes and ladders outside the Centre Pompidou, his set for a Louis Vuitton collection inspired by the designer’s travels to Mumbai. Stay up to date with events in Paris through Sunday by following our live feed, and see highlights of all the best shows in our full round-up. Meanwhile, the rest of your Weekendpaper* reading awaits, including a tour of Paris’ reopened Grand Palais, an exclusive excerpt from a new book on Virgil Abloh, and a trip to Glastonbury. |
|
 |
|
|
|
 |
|
 |
|
Inside Grand Palais’ mammoth renovation |
|
It took four years for the Grand Palais’ meticulous restoration to be completed, but this Paris classic has just reopened to the public – and it is an architectural spectacle. Parisian studio Chatillon Architectes took detailed care to craft a space that feels at once familiar and refreshed, respecting the historical building’s nature and seminal place in the French collective consciousness. The city monument and exhibition centre was originally built for the Universal Exposition of 1900, instantly recognisable for its grand nave and glass roof and created by a team of architects of the time, including Charles Girault, who acted as the main coordinator. The restoration of the listed structure was a unique commission for Chatillon Architectes, which began work on the project in 2021. Bringing the complex back to life was no mean feat, involving the study of thousands of archive plans and documents and working with a site of some 900 team members. ‘Restoration is always innovation. We cannot go back,’ practice founder François Chatillon told Ellie Stathaki, who takes us on a tour.
|
|
Before he was a fashion supernova, Virgil Abloh was an architecture student |
‘Like so many young people from the Midwest who had big dreams, like so many American fashion designers before him, Virgil Abloh looked east to find his future. He cast his gaze toward Chicago, the city of house music and hip-hop, the Magnificent Mile and the South Side, Jesse Jackson and Barack Obama, midcentury and modernist buildings.’ So writes Pulitzer Prize-winning fashion critic Robin Givhan in her new book, Make It Ours: Crashing The Gates of Culture with Virgil Abloh – an exploration of the visionary creative’s rise to the top of the fashion industry and the path that led him to break down barriers for many to follow. Read an exclusive excerpt.
|
Ten bespoke musical dollhouses inhabit a suburban wonderland in this NYC installation
|
An installation in the heart of New York brings together the best of avant-garde design and music practice. Housed in the Shopify storefront in SoHo, ‘Sounds Like Home’ is a blend of memory and innovation at the heart of which are ten new speakers, handcrafted from original 1930s metal dollhouses.
Presented like a slightly eerie 1950s suburb, this strange mix of tech and surrealism is a collaboration between Canadian design collective Bentgablenits and Teenage Engineering, using the latter’s OD-11 speaker as the core of the ten art-object sound machines. The soundscapes occupy a wayward universe that amplifies and exaggerates the miniature worlds captured by the original dollhouses, with settings including a living room, a chapel and a corner store. Jonathan Bell speaks with the collaborators, who are also featured in a short film. |
|
| |
.jpg)
%20(1).jpg)
.jpg)
