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Weekendpaper* | Cruise collections to go

Sat 7:01 AMfutureplc
Weekendpaper* | Cruise collections to go
Plus, Marina Abramović’s new favourite band, Barber Osgerby, and Alex Israel
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From our editors
Jack Moss, fashion & beauty features director

The Cruise runway shows – which take place on the cusp of summer, running through late April, May and early June – are some of the most dramatic of the fashion calendar, with houses largely eschewing the typical style cities in favour of distant locales.
Cruise fashion show
And this season, which began with Chanel in late April, looks to be the most talked-about in some time, largely thanks to a coterie of designers who are making their debut in the medium – namely, Matthieu Blazy at Chanel (who chose the seafront of Biarritz, France, where the the house began), Jonathan Anderson at Dior (a musing on Hollywood at LACMA in Los Angeles), and Demna at Gucci (a full-throttle takeover of Times Square). Each grasped the opportunity to further hone their vision for their respective powerhouses – after all, the Cruise shows, which often encompass transporting runway sets, one-of-a-kind ephemera and curated experiences for guests, are as much marketing opportunities as they are about the clothes themselves.

In our ongoing round-up of the Cruise 2027 runway shows – which continued with Louis Vuitton in New York on Tuesday, and will include further stops in Shanghai for Max Mara and Los Angeles for Hermès – we explore the phenomenon and unpack the shows so far.

Weekendpaper* takes off, too, this week (the season’s must-have drawstring pouch in hand) to a remote Himalayan retreat, LA as perceived by artist Alex Israel, Chelsea Flower Show, and back in time with Edward Barber and Jay Osgerby.
Five minute reads
Alex Israel artwork, an outline of his head with birds within
Rediscover LA, from inside artist Alex Israel’s head

Multimedia artist, filmmaker, designer, and Los Angeles native Alex Israel once put a head-shaped hole in a limited-edition cover of Wallpaper* (our February 2020 issue). Now, in collaboration with Pace Prints in New York, and with LA as his muse, he invites you inside his head with a new suite of ten archival pigment prints – ‘Where is My Mind?’ – that emphasises introspection. Within outlines of the artist’s head, closer inspection reveals a glimpse of the Hollywood Bowl stage, sprawling LA seen from an aeroplane window, and the ocean at sunset.

‘My creative brain turns on when I’m in motion. For most of my life, that meant driving. Then, during the pandemic, I started taking long walks – two, sometimes three hours long – and something shifted. The same flow of ideas started happening there too,’ Israel tells Hannah Silver. ‘And this flow became tied to a new way of seeing Los Angeles – on foot, slower, more attentive. Over time, as the images in this series accumulated, it became clear that what I was building was both a landscape of a city I know intimately and a map of my own mind.’

Indian lodge interior with picture window
Journey to the luxury lodge redefining slow travel in India’s remote north

Getting to Shakti Prana requires commitment. From Delhi, the journey to the hotel begins with a short domestic flight to Pantnagar, followed by nearly six hours of winding mountain roads climbing steadily through the foothills of Uttarakhand, the first of several drives across a five- to seven-night programme that takes in traditional village stays on either side of Shakit Prana itself.

Founded two decades ago, hospitality group Shakti Himalaya pioneered a form of luxury travel in the Indian Himalayas that was intimate and community-rooted, built around private walking journeys between restored traditional village houses in three distinct regions: Ladakh, Sikkim and Kumaon. Its most celebrated property, Shakti 360 Leti, helped define what mountain hospitality could look like when it opened 16 years ago, before it was dismantled stone by stone in March 2024. Those same stones, carried by mule train 2,700 ft up a steep goat path, now form Shakti Prana, the brand's newest and most ambitious lodge, and one of the most remarkable properties to open in the Himalayas in years. Lauren Ho took her hiking boots.

Barber Osgerby
Look back with Barber Osgerby as the duo bows out after 30 amazing years

‘The way that we work is pure experimentation,’ says Edward Barber, referring to Barber Osgerby, the award-winning British design practice he co-founded with Jay Osgerby three decades ago, and which the duo announced would close this week, as they part ways to pursue independent projects. In the beginning, he continues, ‘we weren't even thinking about a potential market for [our] pieces. We were just making stuff, folding plywood to create structures. When we design now, we are obviously imagining how [a piece] is going to be used and what price it is going to come out at, and if it is a viable product; but with the early stuff, we had no idea and honestly didn't care either. We were just having fun.’

In an exclusive interview with Rosa Bertoli, the designers reflect on their partnership, from day one at the Royal College of Art to a fortuitous early-Wallpaper* moment (they designed Wallpaper’s 100% Design stand in 1997, featuring their ‘Loop’ table for Isokon, and got scouted by Giulio Cappellini), designing the 2012 Olympic torch, their current retrospective at Triennale Milano, and forever taking the ‘unpredictable’ path.

 
 Wallpaper* Milan Design Week issue banner 
 
 
 
Design of the week
Sculpture in garden

This sleeping Mother Nature, carved from a fallen redwood, sums up the evocative sanctuary that scooped best in show at Chelsea Flower Show. Designed by Sarah Eberle for the Campaign to Protect Rural England, the garden highlights the importance and vulnerability of countryside on the fringes of urban areas. See more of our Chelsea highlights.

ELLIE STATHAKI, ARCHITECTURE & ENVIRONMENT DIRECTOR
 
 
For your consideration
The stuff that’s excited our editors this week
 
 
bag
Bag...
...a drawstring pouch, possibly this summer’s most desirable accessory. It started with this satin version, featured in the S/S 2026 Prada show – a playful alternative to the stuffy evening bag, it can also be worn with a T-shirt and jeans, slung over the wrist for a daytime wander.
JACK MOSS, FASHION & BEAUTY FEATURES DIRECTOR
 
 
summer jacket
Puff...
…up your summer wardrobe with Moncler, whose seasonal collection reimagines its signature quilted and down jackets in new featherweight iterations – whether ‘pillowy, multi-dimensional, light-as-air outerwear’, like this floral print jacket, or pieces designed to be layered.
JACK MOSS, FASHION & BEAUTY FEATURES DIRECTOR
 
 
hotel
Transport...
…yourself to Taiwan with this week’s International Booker Prize-winning novel, Taiwan Travelogue, by Yáng Shuāng-zǐ, translated from Mandarin Chinese by Lin King, which follows two women’s 1930s culinary tour across the country. Alternatively, go yourself and book a stay at another winner, the André Fu-designed Capella Taipei (pictured), Best New Opening in the 2026 Wallpaper* Design Awards. 
BRIDGET DOWNING, EXECUTIVE EDITOR
 
 
From the W* Culture Desk
band members of Mary in the Junkyard
Meet Marina Abramović’s favourite new band
Giant vase in park
See Roberto Lugo’s gigantic vase and fire hydrant in Madison Square Park
Pauline Deltour exhibition
Discover the late, great Pauline Deltour at the newly revamped MADD Bordeaux
 
 
Design of the week
‘Nobody thinks while shopping; it’s a reflex.’
 
 
 
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