Back to the 1990s with Juergen Teller and Edward Enninful

The Tate’s celebration of the art and fashion that defined 1990s Britain opened this week in London. For an insider’s look back, Hannah Silver asked the show’s curator Edward Enninful and photographer Juergen Teller – who met in 1993, when the former was the 18-year-old fashion director of i-D – to recall an eventful decade. Here’s just a flavour…

EE: It was the last time before cell phones, before online. We were able to really experiment, really make mistakes and learn from them. It’s rose-coloured now, but it wasn’t the easiest of times either. I was probably the only Black person I remember, apart from maybe Pat [McGrath] and Naomi [Campbell]. We had to negotiate and find our way.

JT: And I'm German! Being in that environment in London was very tough for me. But all these ideas from that time are found in Young Pink Kate [the lead image for the exhibition]. She looks so beautiful, and it was a time where we felt really free. There was no you can't do this, or you have to put on an outfit head to toe, and you have to have that handbag in it. With this photograph, it was just Kate. She went to a fashion show in Milan for Gianni Versace, and they coloured her hair pink. She flew back to London the next day and called me up. She said, ‘I’m going to change my hair colour back to normal, but before that, Juergen, come over to my house and photograph me, because that could be something.’ That was it. Nobody wanted money or publicity, we wanted to do it creatively. We wanted to play. What also really works is the photograph of her turning round on the cover of Wallpaper*. It’s like turning round into the ’90s, and it feels so innocent as well. It’s this real sense of freedom.

‘I became an artist because I have never been particularly interested in rules or norms,’ Adam Pendleton tells Hannah Silver. They are speaking over Zoom on the eve of the American artist’s major new show at Stedelijk Museum Amsterdam – ‘Some Wild Kind of Language’, 10 October 2026 to 17 January 2027 – where he is presenting 11 paintings and eight large drawings. ‘When I look back, I realise I was always looking for means and mechanisms that could allow me to tap into that which is different or other.’

Back in 2008, Pendleton shaped a new way of working, a framework he calls Black Dada, which sits at the intersection of the avant-garde, abstraction and Blackness. Solo exhibitions at institutions including MoMA in New York, and the Montreal Museum of Fine Arts followed.

At the Stedelijk Museum show, where his interventions include turning one of art’s earliest ‘white cube’ spaces black as a backdrop to his drawings, he continues to reframe abstraction. ‘I think my desire to break the rules is on full display here,’ he says. ‘It’s very intentional.’

As Paris Fashion Week drew to a close earlier this week, the Wallpaper* fashion team headed home reflecting not just on the collection highlights, but on the scene-stealing sets of the whole S/S 2027 show season – which took them to New York, London and Milan ahead of the finale in the French capital.

There were minimalist, gallery-style white cubes, artificial gardens, and high-octane glamour. For some, art was the order of the day: Louise Trotter commissioned three separate artists to participate in the build of Bottega Veneta’s space; and at Calvin Klein, curated pieces from the artist Walter De Maria were spread across multiple rooms. Demna, meanwhile, returned with another uncanny facsimile for Gucci, this time a boutique under construction, while both Tory Burch and Jonathan Anderson at Dior let ornamental gardens form the backdrop to their respective ready-to-wear offerings. And then there were Louis Vuitton’s flying cars. Discover some of the season-defining sets with India Jarvis and Jack Moss.

In the market for a Florentine bolthole? Once the fly loft of a 19th-century theatre, retaining the original monumental masonry walls, as well as a spectacular brick arch and some architectural elements that date back even earlier, this architect’s home is fittingly full of drama – and there’s a suspended glass-bottomed pool to boot. Splash out.